#5861 (#6100) reads the chosen printer's papers and default paper in the background, and the
default replaces the dialog's paper unless it was chosen in the dialog (paper_overridden). The
paper a printer's setup restores (#2001, #6779) didn't count as chosen, so on Windows the driver's
default replaced it each time the dialog opened: an office printer last printed on A3 came back
on A4.
apply_setup now marks the paper it restores as chosen. A test drives the dialog with a printer
remembered on A3 whose driver's default is A4.